YOUR FIRST BESPOKE SUIT?
Ok so you are thinking about ordering a bespoke tailored suit. Sounds simple, and it is if you know what you are looking for and have done a little research.
Rule number 1. Just because a suit is expensive it doesn't necessarily mean it is higher quality. This is very important to know. You need to know what to look for or to ask your tailor before purchasing.
One of the most important yet sadly often overlooked parts of your choice of suit is the construction. This is at least equal to choice of fabric type and weight of fabric.
This blog will touch on construction, specifically canvases and fusings.
Confused already? Don't be. As long as you remember these basic, simple guidelines you won't go far wrong!
Fully Canvassed:
Traditionally a suit was constructed with a horsehair canvas layer which was sewn between the outer wool fabric and the inner lining. The canvas helps hold the shape of the suit and prevents sagging and deforming. In short it gives a superior drape and shape.
As you wear the suit the canvas conforms and moulds to your own body shape giving great comfort and a superb fit.
A fully canvassed suit will cost you more and is virtually impossible to find off the peg due to the workmanship, materials and labour that drives costs up for retailers
Half Canvassed:
A half canvassed jacket has canvas material running only through the chest and lapels, below that the jacket is fused, which I will touch on next.
The half canvassed jacket is a good halfway house keeping the price generally lower than a fully canvassed option as there is less labour and costs to the manufacturer but still maintains many of the benefits of a fully canvassed jacket.
As the lower part only is fused you will not get the problem of bubbling that you find in a fused jacket and still gives a nice drape across your chest, eliminating the stiffness that many fused jackets tend to have.
In short you are getting many of the advantages of a fully canvassed jacket at a lower price.
More and more ready to wear jackets are now being manufactured using this process which is great if you are an "off the peg" customer.
Fused jackets:
This is the jacket that most retailers, particularly the cheaper end retailers use by choice due to the effect of increased production in preference to canvassed.
The method of construction here is by using a fusible inter lining that is glued to the wool of the shell of the suit. This process whilst initially giving good shape to the jacket, can often create an unnatural stiffness and lifelessness.
Don't be fooled by price as mentioned earlier as many high end designer labels use this method to save money in production and therefore increase profit margins.
The most common problem that you will see with a fused jacket is that the glue degrades over time or comes unstuck when dry cleaned at a high temperature causing the wool to detach from the fusing and the ensuing result is rippling and bubbles around the lapels and chest area. Once you have this there is no way to rectify it and you may find yourself locked in a debate with the retailer and the dry cleaner as to who is at fault.
Processes have improved over recent years and the bubbling effect is less common, nevertheless it is something I do still see on a regular basis upon my travels.
So how can I tell the difference between a fused and canvassed jacket?
The best way is to firstly pinch a small area of the fabric of the jacket on the sleeve between your thumb and index finger to give yourself a feel of the thickness of the fabric. The sleeve is the best place as sleeves have no fusing or canvassing so you will be able to just feel the fabric.
Then pinch the fabric from inside and outside at just below the bottom button hole.and very gently pull the layers apart.
If you can feel a third layer then your jacket is fully canvassed, a great start!
If you can't feel a third layer, or the fabric feels stiffer and thicker than that of the sleeve then it is probable that you have a fused jacket.
There is another way which is much more difficult to tell. At the lapels on a canvassed jacket there will be tiny stitches on the reverse of the lapel holding the layers together. These are extremely hard to see but they are there! Look carefully, if you definitely cannot see these stitches, you likely have a fused jacket.
So what real difference does it make to you?
The best answer I can give to this is this....if you genuinely have a love of quality clothing and dressing well then you would always want a canvassed jacket in preference to a fused one because it will always look better on you, they generally last longer and as a rule of thumb a manufacturer that has gone to the trouble of offering a canvassed jacket has shown they are serious about offering high quality merchandise to their customer.
So my tip for buying your suit is this. Ask the tailor outright whether the suit is canvassed or fused. He should readily be able to tell you and also explain the difference and advantages and disadvantages of both. If he tells you they used fused ....I would say avoid, particularly if they are charging you a premium price.
If he doesn't know, run a mile! he shouldn't be selling suits!
Finally, back to my comment about price v quality. many many of the high end designer labels that you will pay through the teeth for are using fused garments that simply are not worth the money. You are paying for a label and no more. Find yourself a reputable tailor like myself at Godfather Tailoring, http://godfathertailoring.com talk to them, ask questions, listen to what they tell you and go for quality rather than a designer name.
I hope this is helpful to you and I have guided you to your next suit.
Next time I will look at different fabrics and how to make the right choice for the purpose.
Feel free to contact me if you wish to discuss a suit that you are thinking of purchasing.
https://godfathertailoring.com
